Complication Twelve
Brief
Client wanted a show-stopping ring.
Client requested a natural emerald cut Santa Maria Blue Aquamarine of more than 20 carats.
Client requested a durable mounting that was structured yet had softness.
The Search for the Aquamarine!
This is truly what made this piece a Complication. In of themselves each of the four criteria are simple enough to find. Finding an Aquamarine with two or three would have you have to roll up yourselves to locate but finding one with all four was a needle in a haystack. I contacted every gem dealer I know through out the world and was offered several stones with three of the criteria. Each lovely but not what I wanted.
Then I did internet searches which can prove to be a blessing or a curse! I have found beautiful gems on line and purchased them however a gem of this caliber needs credentials and that gets dicey when you’re purchasing from a dealer on the other side of the world!
Just as I was losing hope I walked into a local jewelry store in a neighborhood I had just recent relocated because I want to see what they sold and there on a pillow in the case was my needle! There it sat, at 23 carats, this antique natural emerald cut Santa Maria Blue Aquamarine! It belonged to the collection of their goldsmith who was retiring that year and he had decided to sell some of the treasures he had gathered along his 60 year career.
Sketches, Renderings and CAD Illustrations
The Ring
Once I located this unicorn Aquamarine then I had to determine how to set it in a sturdy yet feminine way. I chose the presentation of simple trapezoid diamonds that were just large enough to have their own presence yet not too large that they distract from the Aquamarine.
In keeping with the exquisiteness I used D Flawless Diamonds. After have my three perfect gems next came the task of creating a mounting worthy of them. In fulfilling the brief of sturdiness I went a touch thicker on the prongs, added weight to the band and used cross supports where necessary.
To soften the ring I beveled all the edges by having them hand filed just to give it that femininity my client had requested.
One Note: That inner spring inside the band is something I made to compensate for the client having a larger knuckle than the actual size of her finger. Often jewelers will use a small bar or a couple of little beads but I went with this spring due to the overall complexity of this ring. I felt it deserved that extra touch!