Essay One: Sapphires

Pastel Pink, Sky Blue, Lilac and White Sapphires set in 18k White Gold.

Disclaimer: I worked and worked on this to not have it sound to haughty or artistic so if I failed and in fact it does, do know I tried!

It would appear that color is the foundational component within each Alchemy piece and then it’s relationship to shape, spacial relationship and materials is what is being expressed in each composition. In reality no single component is more significant than any other.

Each component carries the same amount of importance in the overall composition. The visual language of circles relating to rectangles, of ovals to squares, or even of like to like as in a composition of all circles demonstrates that it is in fact shape that gives visual harmony to a composition. Additionally, it would seem that spacial relationship just happens by circumstance but in actuality it is carefully thought out to complement and accentuate the visual conversation created by shape.

Lastly, but certainly not an after thought, materials have a strong impact on the overall composition given they dictates the physical limitations of each of the three other components. In fact, all four components are reliant on the others to achieve its fullest expression. Given this reliance it’s difficult to discuss a single component without discussing another therefore this first essay will be on Sapphires which will draw on all four components!

Fancy Sapphires.

Sapphires are a form of mineral called corundum. When people hear the word Sapphire an image of velvety blue stones comes to mind. What most people do not realize is that Sapphires come in every color one can think of and even more surprising is that a Ruby is actually the red shade of sapphire! More over, Sapphires can be opaque or translucent as well as come in the softest of watercolors, the brightest of burst color you have ever imagined or even change colors depending on the source of light hitting the gem. Thus, making it a “go-to-favorite” of mine in creating Alchemy compositions.

Sapphires are also second-to diamonds on the hardness scale, making them very appealing to me. On a scale of 1-10, Sapphires rate as a 9. This is important for two distinct reasons. In all Alchemy pieces the stones are set in bezels which is when the metal wraps all the way around the stone. To achieve this setting and have it look clean and beautifully presented a master goldsmith must hammer the metal onto the top of the gem forming a perfect edge all the while not damaging the gem itself; it is not an easy feat! Given its hardness, a Sapphire is a perfect choice for this process. Second, the design aesthetics in some of the Alchemy pieces, having the smaller stone eclipsing the larger stone requires the smaller bezel-set stone being soldered onto the bezel of the larger stone. Given the heat of the blow torch every time this process is done we risk shattering both stones. With sapphires and diamonds their hardness reduces the risk of this occurring.

Pink Sapphire with Ruby.

Lastly, not only do Sapphires come in a variety of shapes but within those shapes there are many different cuts. For other types of stones the offerings are very limited. Diamonds have a very exact science of how they are cut, so while there are choices of shape there really is a finite amount of options. Many color stones, let’s look at an Emerald for example, are only available in a limited number of shapes, which are basically driven by what shape people expect them to be! Meaning Emeralds are usually rectangles, round or oval! These expectations are not placed on Sapphires so they come in an infinite variety of shapes and cuts. Thus allowing masterful gem cutters to exercise their skills to create an entire whimsical array for me to chose from in forming each composition. This freedom also allows them to create different depths of gems which ties together, in the case of Sapphires, a juxtaposition between shape and spacial relationship; two of the four components of Alchemy.

Fancy Sapphires.

When you have the opportunity please take a few moments to really look at the Sapphires in each Alchemy composition that contains them to see these attributes of Sapphires come to life. I think you will be surprised and amazed at the diversity of these stunning gems.